The original ¿Por Qué No? location is in a small converted basement garage with tables inside and out. Sitting under an umbrella at a sidewalk table and sipping a Negra Modelo, it might occur to you how closely this resembles a Los Angeles beachside taquería. It’s artistically shabby, with eclectic found objects decorating the colorful walls and making up the furnishings, and the service is way chill. We half expect to feel gritty sand beneath our feet whenever we visit.

This plucky little venture is the fruit of a Portland backpacker’s trip to the heart of Michoacán, and the foods served there—from the Pacific Ocean east into the interior—are done a fair amount of justice here. Despite some claims that this is a yuppie magnet, we’ve found both locations to be melting pots of people from all walks of life. It’s hip, yes, but what place with great vibes and low prices isn’t?

After a wobbly start, this kitchen really found its footing, and now produces pretty reliably good tacos, guacamole, ceviches, and tamales, using local meat and produce. Tortillas are made fresh by hand all day long, and are terrific.

Guacamole has big chunks of avocado, onions, and cilantro, with a fine acidity and saltiness. Carnitas are carefully cooked, though better paired with a spunky salsa verde than their pallid smoky chipotle sauce. Fish tacos are usually excellent, full of nice pieces of moist fish, cabbage, and strips of ripe mango. Occasionally, though, you can get smaller pieces of fish that don’t have as much flavor. Ceviche is vivacious, full of line-caught fish and sweet, fresh shrimp.

Brunch options include pancakes with plantains and organic maple syrup, huevos rancheros, chilaquiles, and tinga with eggs—all dirt cheap. A daily happy hour features beers and tacos for just a few bucks a piece, strong margaritas, cheap rum-spiked aguas frescas, and delicious red and white sangrías. But it gets so crowded that you might have to go enjoy them on the curb, or sweating in a corner next to a Virgen de Guadalupe figurine on a bright green wall. Which is about as close to the real deal as it gets.