Sometimes you lose your sense of perspective when you hit up against restaurant concepts that are just inherently a shitload of fun. Tricked-out nouvelle Southwestern/Mexican is one of those concepts. How can you argue with good margaritas made with plenty of chile-de-arbol-spiked tequila? With a lovely outdoor patio and a bustling-to-the-bursting-point interior, or a festive open kitchen? With a private “mole room,” in deep, burnished reds and browns?

Nuestra Cocina’s menu changes seasonally, but you might start with a good salad of nopales (cactus), whose signature sliminess is tempered on the grill. Grated manchego sprinkled on top is a nice idea for the dish, too, and a mild salsa verde is welcome, although its luster is somewhat diminished when it reappears on barbacoa de cordero con salsa verde (lamb shoulder braised in banana leaf, a bit lean but tender and juicy, and better still when you discover another, sweeter, red sauce hiding in the back of the leaf). Carne asada, a tenderized slab of meat that’s marinated to bright redness, has a lot of flavor, and its beer-laced beans are better still, but a shredded-pork chile relleno tastes too sweet, and enchiladas are dry and flavor-poor; more spice would help.

In general, this kitchen has a timid hand with chilies. Dishes described as spicy aren’t. Even the hot sauce on the table isn’t. Now that Portland’s got its Nuevo Mexicano place, is it too much to ask for a bit of heat to go with it?

But we’re suckers for the good, tart “Cocina Especial” margarita, although the basic version is too lemonadey. And the prices are great; too often, upscale margaritas are an excuse to charge almost $20. Not here. Plus, Tecate on tap is a fun thing to have. Nuestra Cocina can get quite busy, and reservations are not accepted, but if you can swing it, sit at the chef’s table for a great view of the action—for instance you can watch tortillas being made to order. Not everything here will be as good as some renditions you’ll find at cheaper dives, but this is sincere food made with care and experience. After a couple of margaritas, you’ll appreciate it even more.