This restaurant, in an exploding area of Northeast Portland near the Alberta stretch, self-christened as the “Fox-Chase Addition,” has been plagued in the past by poor service and timing issues which deterred a lot of people from experiencing this food, which can be challenging enough as it is. Many dishes are (you guessed it) authentically made in the style found in the Guerrero state of Mexico, home to Acapulco. In this area, they use the pungent, somewhat fetid herb epazote to help control gas. Hey, there’s a price for everything.

The airy space seems to pull off a slightly trendy, lively buzz on almost every night, an atmosphere extremely conducive to drinking many margaritas. The menu is fairly static, with occasional specials that are often very good. Portions, as you’d expect, are generous. Meals start with a refreshing, not-too-spicy escabeche of potatoes, carrots, and cauliflower. Guacamole is fresh and balanced—much better than most restaurant versions. Seafood cocktails are a great way to start, especially with tender, toothsome octopus with tomatoes, red onions, and serrano peppers. Out-of-season tomatoes don’t help any of the cocktails, but the prawns and scallops are great. Skip the soups—the tortilla in particular is rather wimpy and soggy. Instead, save room for wonderful tamales. The pork version has a deep, vivid red chili sauce; a vegetarian option with poblanos, cream, and that slightly bitter epazote is also good.

Red mole here is one of the better versions in town, complex and intense, with bitter chocolate unifying the several different kinds of dried chilies. On a moist half chicken, it’s delicious, as is a smoky chipotle mole. Whole fish is also cooked beautifully, and paired with a sauce that complements, rather than overwhelming.

It’s easy to keep picking out winners: a thin flatiron steak, cooked quickly on the flat-top with charro beans, serrano peppers, epazote, and little strips of nopalitos (cactus); or lomitos de puerco, fork-tender pork tenderloin with a green mole of pumpkin seeds and serranos. Less impressive is a cocido de res, slow-cooked beef short ribs that tend to be underseasoned and served in a somewhat bland broth. But the hits vastly outnumber the misses.

Margaritas vary greatly depending on who’s making them. On one night they will be perfect; on another the balance will be way off. For the most part, the food here is interesting and well prepared, and gives those used to the standard burrito-and-enchilada plates a foray into real Mexican food. And now that the service and timing issues have improved, we’ll be back again and again.