Doan Restaurant has got a pretty diverse menu with something for everyone. As for the Fearless Critics, we’ve got two favorite dishes. One is the bo nuong sa oi, whose lemongrass beef is really nicely marinated, arriving to the table juicy and full of flavor. Fish in clay pot is one of the best versions in Dallas, the caramelized meat wooing us with its savoriness and gooiness.

Bun rieu (crab noodle soup) is particularly good here, with a stunningly clear broth and the distinct salty and briny flavor of the ocean. Bo la lot (beef wrapped in betel leaf) is nice, with an unmistakable aroma; the juiciness and moistness of the beef is well retained by the herbaceous leaf. Pho is also a standout here, as it is full of complex flavor, but without being too greasy or rich. Banh cam (sesame balls) line the walls for take-out; you should take some out.

It’s not exactly a space in which you’ll want to linger, nor is it a dump, and it’s quiet and clean. The better to hear your slurping...