You might not be able to park, unless the owners of an empty lot immediately adjacent to Lumi have softened their stance on parking accommodations between our visits and this writing. If you do manage to find a spot, there’s a surprise in store: the owners trace their heritage to Vietnam and Brazil, so the menu allots space to both. That’s right, spring rolls and feijoada, side by side. The former are bright, herbal, and almost chirpy in character. The meaty Brazilian stew stands in stark contrast: robust, heavy, almost filling, and rather memorable.

The restaurant is on its best when it sticks to simple creations like this. In fact, the best item on Lumi’s menu may be crab fried rice, which seems little different than the take-away stuff you find at any old Asian place—until you realize you can’t stop eating. Unlike so many Uptown venues, there’s little pretense here. The restaurant occupies a frame house leftover from the area’s less posh days. Dishes are generally priced for twice-a-week casual nights out—and they accept the most casual guests. Start or finish with one of their bright, fresh, and somewhat potent Brazilian cocktails.