Tucked in a strip mall and potentially overshadowed by more glitzy neighbors, La Me is the place to go for banh mi sandwiches—the culinary progeny of French-occupied Vietnam where crusty French bread and liver pâté synergize with fresh Vietnamese pickled vegetables, cilantro, green chilies, and a choice of meat. Get the #1 Buu Dien, with pâté roast pork and pork cold cuts.

La Me also has a full menu of Vietnamese fare including a respectable bowl of pho and outstanding bun cha hanoi—a combination of smoky charcoal-grilled pork slices and ground pork patties bathed in a slightly sweet sauce redolent of nuoc mam. This is also the only place in town that serves bo bia—Vietnamese rice paper rolls with jicama, eggs, and Chinese sausage. Bargains abound, including desserts; smoothies can’t be missed, especially the avocado or durian versions; both are seasonal, so if they’re not available, go for the red or white bean.

Décor: quaint but minimal. The space: slightly crowded. Service is hurried but courteous. Check the cold case for plastic to-go cups of crème caramel—a study in balance flaunting rich-but-delicate custard foiled by the sweet bitterness of caramelized sugar singed to the edge of burning.