Stanton’s is the kind of sketchy hole in the wall that has gourmands all atwitter—especially burger aficionados. It’s hard to find at first, because the signage is really a sloppy hand-painted job on the bottom floor of an off-white clapboard building. Inside, this old convenience mart is a friendly little time warp, with the meat counter still operating, and rows of chips and sodas. The only place to sit is at a dingy little four-top—most business is take-out anyway.

Despite its weekly lunch specials, which are broadcast on Twitter and include middle-Americana favorites like fettucine alfredo, meatloaf, and Southern-fried pork chops (even, eep, egg rolls), this place is known for one thing above all: the burger, of which there are over a dozen different preps. Its patty is thick, juicy, hand-formed, and cooked only one way: medium-well to well. We especially love a “Truck Stop,” with a thick onion ring tucked inside. There’s also an old-school patty melt, although it comes on wheat bread instead of rye; rye does appear on an occasional pastrami sandwich special, though, so you could ask for it. Sweet potato fries are better than the regular (from frozen), but onion rings beat them all, crispy and with a moderate breading.

You might want to call ahead, as Stanton’s claims to close one unspecified Saturday a month.