Some of Houston’s best burgers are grilled up at lunchtime in this downtown nutshell decorated with—naturally—hubcaps. Inside the peacock-blue cinderblock, there’s only room for a couple of tables, a long counter against one wall, and an ATM (Hubcap is cash-only). A covered patio runs alongside the building to the garbage containers in the back, which can get downright fetid in the summer. Humble plastic tables out front make for better ventilation.

Hand-cut fries (sweet potato and regular) are fried and salted just right. The grill has even won over the medium-rare purists with hand-formed patties cooked to well done with a nice charred flavor and cheese that melts right into the little meaty grooves. It’s a beefy, juicy, gooey thing of beauty. A “Hubcap Decker” doubles that pleasure with two 1/3-pound patties and a single toasted, homemade bun between them that sponges up all the juice while remaining just crunchy enough. A “Philly Cheese Steak Burger” is a regular hamburger topped with thinly shaved ribeye, fresh grilled peppers and onions, and lots of melty Swiss cheese; and a “Sticky Burger” is like Elvis’s dream, with peanut butter, bacon, and American cheese. It’s really too much for one person—split this and a zippier, tangier “Greek” with a willing friend. At the truck by the Liberty Station bar on Washington, such friends should be easy to come by.