Once upon a time, Naan was a curious jewel. Cut into its face were elements of India (the name), Japan (its sushi), and Korea (a smattering of dishes). The cocktail lounge set to one side drew comely cougars and those who hunt comely cougars. All was well. Sometime over the past few years, however, a change at the top sent Naan into a frightening spiral. Although little changed in appearance—dim lights, a sleek bar, cushy lounge seats—the deft kitchen hands were lost.

Sushi rolls now arrive in Texas-sized portions that fall into pieces, bit by bit, as you try to clench chopsticks around them. Mediocre fish shows in sashimi and nigiri presentations, while the rolls sag under the weight of avocado or cream cheese. Crowds still find their way over to the lounge side, but its once vibrant patio barely rustles. Oddly enough, Naan does prepare some of the more appealing vegetarian and vegan rolls in town. They even make the effort to turn bibimbap into a vegan-friendly dish.