Don’t come to Kona Grill (necessarily) for its distinctive brand of New American-Pacific Rim cuisine. For though it can be good, it is also inconsistent. Sushi can be refreshingly pert with wisps of cool sea spray, or it can be flaccid and slightly off. Pad Thai can be greasy and bland. But when it comes to the spirited fluids with which you choose to wash it all down, Kona shines.

Come to Kona Grill for the scene, the splendid cocktails, and the novel happy hour structure (happy hour from 3–7 p.m.; reverse happy hour from 9–11 p.m. Monday–Saturday, and all day Sundays). It’s earnestly trendy, though blessedly not too loud save for the occasional Lamborghini Murciélago that rolls up to the valet just aft the patio unleashing a throttle surge through its twelve pistons. Park at the bar, and ogle the bright fish flitting in the 2,000-gallon salt-water aquarium that serves as a backdrop.

Kona is urbane and suave with sleek smooth surfaces, sexy curves, and expansive glass panels that open up the restaurant to the patio equipped with stone tables. It’s a good perch from which to leer at the sultry, well-trimmed Park Cites lucre. Kona has a special vegan menu, and great cocktails. Sips: the potent Kirin Gekkeikan Sake Bomber and the mojitos—among the tastiest in the city. Happy hour can get cramped quick—so be swift and sip with vigilance.