Most of the Dallas area’s Wal-Mart-sized steakhouses operate as the culinary equivalent of Miami’s famous “no name” defense during the Dolphins’ early ‘70s Super Bowl run: few guests (and perhaps few staff members) can tell the chef’s name, even under duress. Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse is different. David Holben runs the kitchen at the North Dallas location, and he’s the real deal: trained in France, once head of the city’s finest French restaurants, and responsible for teaching at least a third of Dallas’s top kitchen hands.

Yes, when it comes to steak, marginal pours of single malt Scotch, big red wine lists, and steamed asparagus sides, Del Frisco’s rates just about the same as Pappas Bros., Al Biernat’s and…well, the others. Holben’s presence counts, however, when it comes to daily specials—or when guests venture beyond Prime red meat. His treatment of seafood is subtle. His understanding of vegetable sides extends well beyond steam and butter. Other meats, such as pork, often stand above filet mignon, thanks to his touch.

In essence, Del Frisco’s is as good as any other when it comes to the preparation and service of steak. It shows up when guests look to the menu’s next page.