It was almost two decades ago that Bon Appetit magazine tagged Chamberlain’s as one of America’s best new restaurants. To some extent, chef Richard Chamberlain and crew have been riding the early accolades ever since. Then again, when you trade in Prime steaks, prime rib, and the richest seafood, why change things?

The kitchen’s expertise with prime rib and savory jus sets it apart from the other Dallas-Fort Worth big box, dark wood steakhouses. Otherwise, it’s one of a genre: thick scallops in butter and cream, enormous shrimp wrapped in slabs of bacon, wedge salad dressed in blue cheese and more bacon and so on. If blindfolded and tossed into one of the restaurant’s booths, it might take a moment to suss out the surroundings. The steaks match up well against Pappas Bros., Del Frisco’s, Al Biernat’s, and the other red meat palaces. Service follows along the same professionally solicitous lines.

The wine list includes the usual eye-popping French labels, though they’ve shed some of those early 2000s big boy California Cabernets. Chamberlain’s Addison location, however, gives it one key advantage: there’s a smoking lounge, for those who still remember the luxurious pleasure of lighting up a big, leathery cigar and sipping aged single malt scotch after a thick, buttery steak.