Henry’s Taiwan is on one of those blocks in the I.D. that’s just enervating. It’s next to a bar that is a virtual members-only club for the chronically alcoholic hobo philosopher. This is noteworthy because having one of those “why do I bother to come down here” moments right before you walk in the door helps you properly appreciate the restaurant’s laid-back charm. A former hole-in-the-wall, Henry’s is not much more than a few booths and some cheery yellow walls, but it’s a very pleasant place for a quick meal.

There is a Henry, and he’s a charismatic fellow who likes to chat with his customers. If you’re new to this cuisine, this is helpful, as he’ll gladly explain the composition of a soup or what exactly makes delicious stinky tofu smell like a root canal.

This is a real bang-for-your-buck restaurant, with most items staying in the single-digit range. Soups are delicate, with bonito broth and other touches taking away from sheer authenticity, but adding Henry’s hallmark twist on Taiwanese. And, the stinky tofu is the best in town, and is especially good in the ma la pietan version, which includes a century egg.