All the world loves a crêpe, but, believe it or not, they can be screwed up pretty badly. You have to get the consistency just right—that resilient, but delicate thinness, the whisper-crisped edges. Traditionally, one uses lightly sweetened wheat flour for crêpes sucrées, and buckwheat for savory salées. Happily for Houston, the fedora’d man behind griddle-on-wheels Mélange Crêperie has a knack for this precise craft that has so far eluded even the Frenchest kitchens in town. That doesn’t mean his crêpes by any means escape cross-culturalization: some specials have included palak paneer, outstanding fig and feta, and ajvar (the Slavic roasted pepper and eggplant sauce that’s been gripping the city’s kitchens lately). The usual ham, egg, and cheddar easily unseats the breakfast taco as our favorite morning meal on the go, wrapped for portability in a cone shape (add fresh spinach for a healthy tinge of depth). As a snack or post-lunch treat, the simple lemon and sugar is divine and restrained. When available, don’t miss creamy, tart lime curd.

We suggest transporting the seductively gooey Nutella and banana to your destination before digging in. But quickly—the lifespan of a crêpe is mere seconds from the pan. The cart’s often at the downtown farmer’s market—good news for fans of fresh produce.