This hospitable and comfortable place, with its warm red fabrics and bright-brass railings, plays the French brasserie part exceedingly well. And its Francophile wine list is full of reputable producers from both popular and obscure regions; all are priced reasonably and chosen with care. But we’re not sure how reliable that menu is; they’re often out of our first choices.

The menu represents the food of France’s countryside as well as its finer restaurants, and even the presentation of bone marrow is considerate. You spoon the rich, creamy marrow out of its giant bones, sprinkle on some salt, and spread it onto toast—or, better yet, crackly baguette slices from the table basket. Steak tartare is well seasoned and tender, and salade Landaise is lovely, with frisée, seared chicken liver, juicy lardons, an expertly poached egg, and impeccable vinaigrette. Steak au poivre gets a lot of kick from its coarse peppercorns, and comes with frites that approach earthly perfection, although we question the use of filet mignon, a notoriously flavorless cut.

Sometimes service can seem impatient, overpouring wines and coming across as eager for you to hurry along, which you must resist, if you want a truly French experience.