Don’t be put off by the bland exterior of this unglamorous strip mall eatery next to a Planned Parenthood. Simon Chuang of Simon’s Sushi has created a plate of mishmash, Tex-fusion, pseudo-Japanese phenomenon known as the “BTS Roll,” because it truly is Better Than Sex. Tempura flakes and crab meat are rolled up inside sushi rice and seaweed wrap, topped with salmon and pico de gallo, and bathed in a pool of sesame oil-infused tanginess. The BTS roll combines a Texan’s ingrained love for Tex Mex and genetic predisposition to worship all things deep fried all in one dish.

Like the BTS roll, the rest of the menu at Simon’s Sushi is not traditional Japanese. In fact, it is an outright blatant plea to satisfy the American obsession with rolls. But Chef Simon does it with divine knife skills and impeccable seasoning. Sit at the sushi bar and delight in watching him rotate his knife with speedy ease through a cucumber to create thin sheets of wrapper for silky pieces of salmon. The standard sushi rolls on Simon’s menu are also well constructed. Batter on the softshell crab inside the spider roll holds a good grip, no sign of limpy crab syndrome. Spicy tuna roll is high on heat factor, with visible studs of chilis speckling the tuna’s deep pink flesh. Eel is cooked just right, with a slightly crunchy exterior, and served with just a touch of sauce, but nothing excessive that drowns out the flavor of the eel.