Samui Thai is a formula. The ownership builds in new suburban strips, dressing the room in curtains and other soft touches—enough to soothe the asphalt and faux stone hardscape just outside. They allow guests to make basic cooking decisions: hot or mild, no fruit on this dish, and so on. They water down Thai flavors whenever necessary, without sacrificing the character completely.

In essence, it’s a southeast Asian Olive Garden: consistent, satisfying, and unchallenging. Yet this is the key to the nascent chain’s success. Like Thai Cooking 101, patrons never need extend themselves beyond the known world of pad Thai, yellow curry, lemongrass soup, and tempura. People walk away happy, though not at all wowed. And if a little chicken basil seems frightening, they can seek solace in a flavored martini at the restaurant’s small bar.

Samui Thai aims not for authenticity, but for a pleasing sensation of Thai. In short, gourmands and sticklers will find the place aggravating. But if you walk in knowing what to expect, it’s never disappointing.