Blueacre is the newest space from the owners of Steelhead Diner, and it shares some of the same quirks, like an annoyingly cutesy menu (with sections divided into themes like the “craggy moor” and “belly full o’ steam”) and the perpetuation of bad trends (making wagyu beef into a burger—a waste of expensive meat—and smothering it in Tillamook cheese).

Beyond a few boring meats, Blueacre’s menu is utterly focused on seafood. At the raw bar are Hood Canal and Puget Sound all-stars, Kumamotos, and Wellfleets from Cape Cod. Mains range from Rainier-beer-battered fish and chips to several selections of (refreshingly) whole fishes (usually American varieties like Idaho trout and catfish, and highly recommended).

Blueacre’s menu descriptions are much more playful than the preparations, which rely (not in a bad way) on garlic and lemon, brown butter, or the dreaded soy glaze. When you do get a bit of hazelnut romesco or a Peruvian-inspired aji amarillo, it perks up the dish without overwhelming it. The wide-ranging wine list is especially conducive to having a nip at lunch, with a nice selection of by-the-glass pours.

The space is attractive: the blue accents in a mounted marlin or a blown-up photo of a butterfly play pleasantly off of the shiny sharkskin blue booths. At any rate, it’s a nice, open space, bright and cheerful while looking reasonably grown-up.