Omakase here is incredible: among the many must-orders are hotate konbu jime (sweet scallop with kelp marination and a surprising umami kick on the back end that negates the need for soy sauce) and amaebi (be sure to eat the fried head afterward). Those treats, and other rarities like shirako (sperm sacs from cod), which are more about texture than flavor, break up the nigiri parade nicely. Be sure to request the hotate konbu jime early, as it can take up to an hour to prepare.

As with any good sushi restaurant, you must sit at the counter for the best experience. But if you want to order off the menu, hot dishes like a soft shell crab tempura or spicy deep-fried oysters won’t disappoint. Kisaku’s rolls are very subdued compared to most sushi restaurants, with deep-fried eggplant and red pepper being the craziest one to regularly appear on the menu.

Kisaku is a very pleasant place to have a leisurely meal—although, again, you’ll be better off at the counter, which is more attractive than the rest of the room (which suffers in character a bit from having an odd layout). Besides, which would you rather face: the affable sushi chefs standing over jewel-colored fish or unsmiling Green Lake families?