Approaching this odd, narrow building is one of the pleasures of the Saint—the turquoise-and-white stucco facade could easily fit into to any centro histórico in Mexico. Inside, the Saint feels more rural Spain than D.F., with wood floors and white walls decorated with black-and-white portraits of famous bullfighters. The attractive bar keeps kitschy Mexicana to a minimum, too, settling on a steer’s skull, white votive candles, and the extensive selection of premium tequilas for decoration.

There is a short dinner menu—puerco pibil and yuca fries with a spicy sauce are the best dishes—but this is mostly a place for happy hour, with discounted bites like carne asada tacos and ceviche. The food won’t blow you away, but all of the ingredients are fresh and free-range, and dishes are well-balanced, light, and satisfying—definitely a step above chips-and-guac (though they have that too) fare.

Above all, the Saint is about its drink menu: sipping tequilas, good margaritas, and tequila cocktails (for example, the “Hacienda”—tequila, cherry liqueur, lemon, lime, and fresh cucumber) that are skillfully balanced. For the inner gringo in all of us, a few of the cocktails are served in Jarritos bottles, and there’s a bucket of Coronitas on the limited beer menu.