Carafe may cater largely to a distracted business-lunch and pre-theater crowd, and it may sit in a totally random office-building location. But this is the most finely realized French Brasserie concept in the city, beating the more heralded Fenouil at its own game. The mirrors, the banquettes, the lively din, the French shouts coming from the kitchen—Disney World couldn’t do any better of a theming job than this. Even the jostling and rudeness in the bar area at happy hour, when some dishes are spectacularly marked down, seems totally authentic. (Once the appropriate hour strikes, the bar prices double, and the ease of sitting down increases dramatically.)

Granted, there are some very un-Parisian touches. To get to the bathroom, for instance, you have to exit the restaurant, look both ways, cross a parking-garage ramp, and actually enter the garage. And the restaurant’s windows (along with the outdoor tables) look out onto that garage on one side and another bland office-building set on the other.

Moules frites—that classic French/Belgian brasserie dish—is pulled off with great skill, with good, plump mussels (the minority slightly stanky, but not in a bad way) sitting in a creamily delicious broth with shallots that is just what it should be, designed exclusively for sopping up with baguette slices. We also love the béchamelicious, if almost absurdly rich, croque monsieur and croque madame.

There’s a respectable duck confit, a well-balanced frisée aux lardons, and “lamb stewed in the style of Morocco” (tagine, anyone?) with chickpea fries, a clever integration of the two cultures. Steak frites is done, as it should be, with hanger steak, and the French fries are right on the money. There’s steak tartare, oysters on the half-shell, and house-made charcuterie with cornichons, mustard, and grilled levain bread. The bread is from Ken’s, and the burger comes on a Ken’s bun.

The well-chosen, dogmatic wine list is almost entirely French, and almost entirely great-value. You don’t often see 1er Cru Chablis or Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc for under $50 at a wine store, never mind at a restaurant. There are perfectly good French reds (like Fronsac) for under $25, and for dessert, unbelievably well priced Sauternes and Côteaux du Layon.

Because of where it is and how it’s positioned, Carafe Bistro might be overlooked by a large swath of the population. We think this is unwarranted, and we think that the concept will soon catch on with a broader audience. Consider yourself warned.