Brazilian-style churrascarias are a carnivore’s paradise, owing their origins to the centuries-old campfire roasts in the Pampa region of southern Brazil. Servers dressed in relatively restrained gaucho outfits (as gaucho outfits go) come to your table with long rotisserie skewers speared with one of many meats: pork loin, tri-tip, flank steak, bacon-wrapped filet mignon, lamb chops, beef short ribs, lamb loin, chicken hearts, and so on.

The space is open and comfortable with dark wood floors, a high ceiling, and bright-orange walls, and the service is friendly and enthusiastic. The large windows and vivid green, red, and yellow sign make the joint easy to spot from the street. The interior sports a full bar at which you can wait for your table. Caipirinhas here are inconsistent, ranging from icy to poorly muddled, with low-quality liquor. A small wine list featuring reasonable markups on well-made domestic, South American, Italian, and Spanish bottles is a better way to go.

You’ll start with a salad bar of several interesting selections: a wonderful potato salad; orzo with corn, ham and peas; and so on. Some salad-bar items are better than others, but most are worth trying. (Just don’t over-indulge. Meat is ahead.)

When the roaming gauchos bring meat to your table, they’ll tell you what cut it is and what sauce, if any, has been used for a marinade. A simple nod of the head and the server will begin cutting off a thin slice. See something at another table you want? Just let someone know and they’ll bring it out to you. Don’t waste your time on prosaic chicken, but be sure to try picanha, the traditional tri-tip roast. Chicken hearts are wonderful, an explosion of flavor. Even shrimp are cooked beautifully and have wonderful, sweet, smoky flavor.

Every so often, the servers will wander by with caramelly grilled pineapple meant to refresh your palate between courses. For heaven’s sake, don’t pair it with red wine.

This isn’t the best that a churrascaria can be, but it’s a good time and worth the money and the, ahem, digestive issues you’ll no doubt incur with this level of meat consumption.