Pierson and Company has built a loyal following. The family is as welcoming and hospitable as Southern law dictates; new customers can get full on the free samples alone. The red-and-white house sits on stilts at the crossroads of Manfield and TC Jester, and has that allure that only hidden gems can hold.

The brisket’s the best thing here. Otherwise, we’d hesitate to rave about Pierson, as brisket is more important to Texas barbecue than anything. All meats here are smoked with mesquite, with the brisket benefiting the most. It’s tender, smoky, and with a nice seasoned crust. Ribs are nearly as good, but sausage is eerily similar to the one served at Burn’s just down the road, which has a regrettable processed flavor and texture. Other meats include chicken (Fridays and Saturdays only) and turkey, pulled pork, and smoked boudin. The sauce is excessively sweet but has a nice tang to it—but this is Texas, so you leave it off of a good brisket, anyway.

Unlike at other barbecue establishments that tend to just phone in this important detail, homemade sides are terrific. Beans are smoky and spicy, and potato salad is creamy and a little sweet. Peach cobbler, although served in tiny portions, is a must. The dining room is precious, but we take ours to go. (For the beer, you know.)