Despite the wealth of Ethiopian-Americans living out in Katy and Pearland, Houston only has a couple of Ethiopian restaurants (this one being the best). Few cuisines on Earth are so deeply satisfying, so complex, smoky, spicy, soulful, and healthy. Use the injera bread as an ersatz utensil—its citric sourness is a great complement to the food. But beware how quickly it expands in the stomach.

The African décor—brightly zig-zagging fabrics in orange, yellow, and turquoise—brightens up the otherwise dimly lit spot. The menu isn’t dumbed down, using exact Ethiopian words for dishes, leaving the burden of explanation on the unbelievably patient staff. Service this caring translates across any barrier.

One meat and one vegetable combination is a great way to sample the cuisine. Kik alicha (split peas) are creamy but pebbly, with just enough onion flavor. Gomen (collard greens cooked with peppers and garlic) could have a place on any Southern table. Kitfo (a tartare in an enticing blend of spices) is delicious; anyone will love doro wot, tender chicken drumsticks in earthy, robust berbere sauce—or alicha wot, lamb in the same sauce.

Afterward, enjoy freshly brewed, tableside-prepared coffee, and that feeling of salubrious fullness that comes from eating food from the cradle of mankind.