Although Azumi on Dryden is no more, the new Azuma on the Lake is the epitome of catalog-y neatness. We prefer Rice Village’s Azuma; the feng shui’s certainly in order: wood tones and running water are consistent motifs. The space is sparse but welcoming, sexy but not over the top. It walks the tightrope of trendiness without feeling like a club—don’t expect bells, whistles, or loud music. Order family-style, as dishes rarely show up all at the same time.

Given all the vibe, we don’t expect the food to be such a strong point. We wince to recommend the specialty rolls—the most Americanized things you could order—yet they have long been a forte here. Azuma’s famous “Red Devil Roll” is an addictive combination of spiciness and crunch, but the dobin mushi, a teapot soup with seafood in a highly concentrated broth, is often so salty that you’re compelled to drink a glass of water immediately. Hamachi kama is heavenly, with light grilling applied to both the crispy and fleshy parts of the fish. And sashimi is served at the correct temperature, if the large slices speak more to an American expectation of value rather than a Japanese pursuit of perfection. There are silly things like sticky-sweet Hawaiian “teriyaki” bowls and mango-peach cocktails, but if you’re here, you probably have a good sense of humor.