It’s unfortunate that dinner here isn’t as consistent or good as breakfast or lunch, because the evening is the only time this place is bearable. Earlier, especially on weekends, the place is overrun with North Capitol Hill families—you’ll be tripping over strollers, squeezing past yoga moms, and you won’t be able to find a seat once you’re inside. But when it’s calmer, this place is quite sweet, with its checkered curtains and communal farm table—it feels like it should be serving sweet tea in a Southern state.

Baked goods are decadent and delicious. Panini—particularly bacon and egg with gruyère or apple brie with lavender honey—are also very good, though you should opt for croissants, as the baguettes are sometimes a bit too chewy. The quiches are fine, though not particularly rich or complex. The wine list digs deep to feature some interesting producers.

At lunch, the standouts are the beef brisket sloppy Joe and the chicken salad sandwich with apple slices. Dinner mains are simple, too, some embracing the rustic (beef brisket with fontina polenta or English pea risotto), some taking an index card from grandma’s recipe box (pork and beans, mini chicken pot pie).