Sutra is a supper club for vegetarians and vegans, and carnivores too will enjoy what is essentially a clinic on creating upscale veggie fare that doesn’t rely on gimmicks or fake meats.

Sutra follows the standard supper-club playbook: one seating per night (Wednesday and Thursday at 7pm; Friday and Saturday at 6:30pm and 9pm; Sunday at 6:30pm) for a four-course meal of local, seasonal food, preceded by a few words from the chef. The meal starts light—an asparagus-thyme bisque or roasted sunchoke and tarragon soup, for instance—but portions are large; even salads are given some extra heft with elements like breaded fiddlehead ferns. By the time you hit the main dish, you might be too full to finish it. That would be a shame, because it might be a nicely textured risotto cake piled with seasonal veggies; vegan lasagne; or perhaps a curried potato or squash dish. Desserts are excellent, often using premium dark chocolate from local factory Theo. There’s a decent selection of organic wines and beers.

The tiny room, painted spring green, is modern but still has a yoga-retreat feel. Dining is communal, and most seats at the two L-shaped tables have a view of the prep area. Service is very personal and the set-up precludes any sort of privacy, so this is best for a medium-sized group or an extremely casual date.