For starters, the wine list: this is a “wine bistro” with a (limited) supermarket-shelf selection and an (equally reprehensible) “90s Bin” of wines scoring 90 points or better. Under the circumstances, it may be best to go for a nameless happy-hour shiraz at $4; it’s at least drinkable, the price is right, and the glassware is acceptable. Attempts at atmosphere almost rise to the level of acceptable as well.

Now to the food: Trilogy offers three types of brick-oven pizza, the “New York Traditional,” the “Chicago Deep Dish,” and the “California Wheat” (who knew that was a category?). You can build your own variation on one of these or go for a “Gourmet Pizza Creation” such as the “Formaggio di Capra.” It has the look of California, the blistered crust of a New York pie, and it’s almost good, needing just a little more pesto to bolster the bacon, goat cheese, tomatoes, and onion. The bruschetta appetizer consists of toasted bread slices piled high with chunky tomato and enlivened with a little garlic, all drizzled with olive oil and strewn with grated (though dry) parmesan and fresh basil. It’s worlds away from rustic bread rubbed with a cut tomato, but if bounty is the goal, it’s achieved.

Once the shock and awe of super-size subside, a typical Trilogy pasta bowl such as the “Pasta Fuego,” is also pretty good in the more-is-more mode. Penne, reasonably al-dente, are baked with sliced meatballs, jalapeño, onions, and mozzarella, and there’s no denying its all-American assertive flavor. Share it.