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Fearless Critic restaurant review
San Antonio
Food
Feel
Price
6.6
7.0
$45
Italian
Casual restaurant

Hours
Mon–Thu 11:00am–9:45pm
Fri 11:00am–11:00pm
Sat noon–10:45pm
Sun noon–9:45pm

Features Wi-Fi
Bar Beer, wine, liquor
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx
Reservations Not accepted

Website

King William/Southtown
800 S. Alamo St.
San Antonio, TX
(210) 223-5353
La Focaccia Italian Grill
Time-warp Italian in a setting that’s equally out of time

This is the kind of place one either loves for its timeless tackiness or hates for its complete lack of taste. We fall somewhere in the middle, not failing to remark, however, that the guy playing keyboards with the synthesized backup tracks can hardly qualify as “live” entertainment—especially when cranking out “Don’t Cry For Me Argentina” and “New York, New York.” The food’s aspirations are only slightly greater.

And as such they’re mostly met. An order of broiled “Oysters Oreganate” tasted mostly of the accessory ingredients, but what little there was left in the shells was great with the house’s signature focaccia. A side of sautéed spinach? Too much olive oil and way-toasty garlic, but still not bad. An order of “Penne alla siciliana,” mantled with mozzarella and studded with eggplant and sausage, needed more bite; toward meal’s end, the remaining half of the order could be lofted with a single fork. Pizzas from a wood-fired oven can be good, however, and beef tenderloin medallions with mushrooms and “Burgundy Wine” don’t imply the bogus, jug stuff. The regular wine selection is of no interest, but there is a “Captain’s List” that could be worth a passing glance.

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