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Fearless Critic restaurant review
Portland
Food
Feel
Price
8.2
7.5
$10
Czech
Food cart

Hours
Mon–Fri 10:00am–3:00pm

Features Outdoor dining, veg-friendly
Bar None
Credit cards None

www.schnitzelwich.com

Downtown
SW 5th St. at Stark St.
Portland, OR
(503) 997-5467
Tábor
Just try and say “schnitzelwich” without smiling

We had a difficult time selecting which food carts to include in this book. It was stupid hard. There are so many notable choices, most of which we hope to one day include on fearlesscritic.com. Until then, we’ve chosen the best and most high-profile carts, as well as those selling the most unique foods. Tábor’s (pronounced “Taah-bor”) adorable, highly conspicuous raspberry-and-lime-colored cart fits both profiles. It’s part of the growing, makeshift restaurant row downtown, and is one of the best-loved lunch spots for people who work in the area.

There’s a sense of permanence at this cart (which is really more of an Alpine hut in Technicolor), with its array of tables and chairs, faux-granite counter, and homey kindness. People line up for the whimsical-sounding schnitzelwich, a gut bomb that pits soft, warm ciabatta from Grand Central Bakery against crusty, breaded, and tender pork loin with a peppy paprika spread, horseradish, sautéed onions, and romaine lettuce. It’s an irresistible order, the textures and flavors yielding to each other like a dream—yet it renders you completely incapable of movement for several hours, like a snake digesting a whole rabbit.

Vegetarians will love a sandwich of fried Muenster cheese, with mayonnaise and romaine. It’s every bit as filling as the schnitzelwich (and, we’re sure, just as artery-hardening). For something lighter but still hearty, goulash is a faithful rendering, with either ciabatta for dipping, or homemade spätzle dumplings (noodles, if available), and more of the ubiquitous paprika. Spätzle also delights with Polish kielbasa and sauerkraut with “other secrets”—perhaps paprika?—and sour cream; the kielbasa snaps slightly and gives way to a juicy, porky interior and the sour, tart elements combine to remind you why this is one of the world’s favorite comfort foods.

Finish up with some fluffy dumplings filled with seasonal fruit, like plums, apricots, or strawberries and topped with a sort of sweet “cottage cheese.” One order includes three child’s-fist-sized dumplings, so take them back to the office and use them to bribe coworkers to keep supervisors away while you nap.

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