Sel Gris comes on strong with expertly executed French-inspired food, stimulating looks, and the kind of pretentious service that makes the high price tag feel more earned. We like the space for the infectious energy of its open kitchen. If you can sit at the chef’s table, it’s alternatively a total floorshow and an illuminating one-on-one with the chef.

The place is intimate and beautiful, but more in a seasonal-flowers sort of way than some other hotel-lobby drama queens. Your eye tends to go straight to the copper pots hanging in that dynamic kitchen at the end of the room, which makes for great conversation if you’re on an awkward first date.

Dishes here are innovative in the style of Seu George covering David Bowie—there’s nothing to the melody you haven’t heard before, but when it’s plucked on a nylon strong guitar and sung in Portuguese, you’ll hear a side of “Life on Mars” you never knew was there. Take, for instance, sweetbreads. They’re cooked properly crispy, as they are in most places. While they’re often paired with a tart fruit component, Sel Gris’ combination with a green apple butter imparts a lovely balance of richness and acid in a way that is astoundingly subtle. Another time, that job was done by a sparky tomato jam, this time hitting both sweet and spicy notes that complemented the creamy insides of the sweetbreads.

The slight pretentiousness makes its way onto the menu, as well, with items like “foie gras of the moment” (we get it, this is a chef-driven restaurant) and a salad including “sieved egg” (hold for applause). But many of these descriptions are seductive, too; the danger here, of course, is that the food may not always live up to it. A New York strip with “green garlic pommes dauphinoise,” grilled ramps, asparagus, and ramp butter, the steak prep one night, was very expensive but not particularly well marbled or interesting. But homemade filled pastas are always a sure thing.

The wine list offers little of interest for under $40. There’s some resourcefulness, but it favors the pricier (though very good) bottles. And for what you spend, these reds are carelessly served much too warm.

Seasonal desserts are good, and chocolates finished with a little sel gris are a nice finishing touch. Although this kitchen doesn’t take a whole lot of risks, it is as consistent as any in the city.

[Editor’s Note: At press time the restaurant had closed because of a fire, but was reopening soon.]