Ristretto roasts its own coffee every day in a vintage Probat roaster. You might have already had a cup of Ristretto coffee, if you have ever been to Bar Vendetta, Siam Society, Javarama, or any number of the other restaurants that carry it. There are now two Ristretto branches where you can have your pick of about seven or eight roasts, at any time of the day. They’ll grind the beans, and drip a cup for you.

Though the location in Northeast (where they do all the roasting) is somewhat cramped, the lovely and spacious North Williams branch invites lingering with the paper. The high ceilings and exposed wood beams are rustically elegant, and the simple shapes and brown-and-white scheme remind us of a paper coffee cup. It’s a great place to showcase local artwork—much of it by employees of Ristretto. The dishware is a playful, vibrant orange, and the Wi-Fi is free.

The roasts traverse South America, Central America, and East Africa; many are fair trade. Roasting is careful and studied, and coffee never tastes burnt or harsh. Complex flavors and aromas are allowed to come through in each cup—if you ever want to compare and contrast, attend one of their frequent free cuppings (like a wine tasting for coffee). Espresso drinks are also pulled well here, and the staff is obviously well trained in the art.

A nice selection of pastries by the acclaimed bakery Crema are available. So get on in there and get serious about coffee already.