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Fearless Critic restaurant review
Portland
Food
Feel
Price
7.1
8.0
$15
American
Bar

Hours
Mon–Thu 11:00am–midnight
Fri–Sat 11:00am–1:00am
Sun 11:00am–11:00pm

Features Date-friendly, outdoor dining, veg-friendly, Wi-Fi
Bar Beer, wine, liquor
Credit cards Visa, MC

www.newoldlompoc.com

Mississippi Ave. Area
3901-B N. Williams Ave.
Portland, OR
(503) 288-3996
5th Quadrant
A classic neighborhood hangout that sets the bar high for pub food and homemade brews

Owned by the folks behind Old Lompoc, 5th Quadrant shares a corner with the irresistible Pix Pâtisserie. Its high ceilings of old exposed wood beams and rough concrete floor show its roots as a car repair shop. The roll-up garage door is still in place, although it’s been replaced by a newer version that opens up onto a patio on nice days. The overall feeling is warm in the winter, but open and airy in the summer, with plenty of room for larger parties.

Portions are generous and rather upscale…for pub food, anyway. A “5th Quadrant Salad” comes loaded with sweet roasted beets, crunchy hazelnuts, creamy Gorgonzola, fresh greens, and an excellent, balanced orange vinaigrette. An Italian chopped salad in basil vinaigrette is also good, with lots of interesting flavors and textures, but don’t bother with the bland Caesar.

Sandwiches are the mainstay here; all come with your choice of soup, salad, fries, or coleslaw. The soups are serviceable, and fries can be slightly mealy, but a good sprinkling of sea salt on top gives little explosive bursts to every bite. The burger is better than most other pub versions: a thick half-pound patty topped with all the normal accoutrements and your choice of smoked Gouda, Swiss, or Tillamook cheddar. Juices run out every time you take a bite, so hold it over the large mound of fries, which will soak up all that goodness. A barbecue pork sandwich is a worthy effort—if hardly world-class—piled high and demonstrating the right balance of vinegary cole slaw.

After 5pm, there are a few more mains available, among them a standard serving of meatloaf on a mound of mashed potatoes, with sautéed vegetables and gravy. Surprisingly, there are quite a few good vegetarian options here: some of the better pub eggplant parmigiana around, or a well-balanced Portobello sandwich with roasted red peppers and spicy remoulade.

Beer, of course, is the star here. There’s a wide selection for all tastes, including seasonal beers, some guest microbrews, and mostly house brews—like the culty Lompoc Strong—on draft. Of all the Lompoc locations, this one might just be the most inviting and neighborly.

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