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Fearless Critic restaurant review

Mon–Fri 7:00am–4:30pm

Bar None
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx

Greenway Plaza
5 Greenway Plaza
Houston, TX
(832) 377-7773
Greenway Coffee & Tea
An object lesson in excellence from a cup of coffee

This is a great time to be a gourmand. Perhaps as a response to rampant technology and capitalism, there’s this single-minded, almost ascetic pursuit of excellence in all things food and drink. One incarnation of this phenomenon sees tattooed kids in horn-rimmed glasses, all over the country, devoting themselves to coffee, etching their names into the metal of their tamps with Eastwoodian gravity. It’s a somewhat strange scene in Houston, but even stranger in the corporate Greenway Plaza, in the underground food court that caters to the employees of multinational conglomerations.

Don’t expect to grab a quick, extracted, mealy coffee like that of a certain megacoffeehouse. A simple cup of slow-brewed, single-origin black coffee has as much depth and complexity as a good Burgundy. Greenway’s espresso drinks are an art unto themselves; a flat white’s like a latte, but using microfoam from the bottom of the milk pitcher—in this case, locally sourced and minimally pasteurized milk. The result is a stretched milk that incorporates the espresso’s excellent crema into it, creating a swirl of luxurious richness that can’t possibly be substituted for the bubbly foams of lesser cafés. Hey, thorough research, a commitment to excellence, and a product that benefits the community: maybe the Greenway execs are coming downstairs for business lessons as well as a cup of joe.

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