Whether or not we especially crave any of its food, we like being at Canopy. The inside’s got an airy mid-century appeal to it, complete with Eames-style chairs, and the sidewalk seating is pleasant. Tables are free of linen and fuss, and the menu suffers from less globe-trotting jetlag than the one at sister restaurant Shade.

You have plenty of chances to go, considering there’s the rare breakfast and lunch offered here in addition to dinner and brunch. Most items have the de rigueur Southern comfort bent to them, like fried chicken salad and buttermilk-crusted pork loin. Breads and pastries are pretty fantastic, though, and reason enough to hit it up on a weekend mid-morning. Burgers and French toast made with challah are always a selling point for us. At dinner, the more Latin American-influenced dishes fare less well, like overwrought lobster enchiladas and a chile relleno that can’t compete with the authentic versions around town, but do trust in a grilled red snapper whose “Thai curry” beurre blanc works surprisingly well. Salads rely, as they should, on their components for flavor, not on the dressing; soups like French onion are satisfying and well made. Cocktails are fine but hardly noteworthy, while the mostly domestic and French wine list has a few glimmers of brilliance in the mid-range. That seems to be the general behavior here, overall.