Sometimes you’re presented with a glut of options. A Las Vegas buffet, bottomless mimosa specials, a harem—all are pretty universally thought to be good problems to have. Houstonians encounter this conundrum with quality Vietnamese noodle joints. Kim Chau, from both of its non-descript locations, throws another wrench into the decision machine with what might be the best bun bo Hue in a town teeming with great noodles.

Bun bo Hue, like its cousin pho, is an anytime meal that envelops all the senses with its broth, whose deep livestockiness, luxurious noodles, and pig debris are dangerously arousing. First-timers may stumble upon this like a surprise fetish. This bun bo Hue is redolent with slowly simmered bones, and beads of marrow glisten on its surface, which is piqued with spices and lemongrass. Tender morsels of pork shank and gelatinous, velvety cubes of blood are the textural equivalent of a deep kiss, the kind where a little tinniness lingers long after and excites the heart.

Having so many other quality items on the menu may make life hard for you, like bun rieu oc, in which noodles ensnare snails and seafood in a broth spiked with funky shrimp paste, or divine rice-flour cakes topped with crushed shrimp. But hey, life in the big city will throw a lot of challenges at you: a noodle problem, you can handle.