Nguyen Ngo (pronounced “nuWHEN no”) has a well-deserved reputation for excellent banh mi. If you just want a snack, the smallest size really is quite small, and the basic ham with pâté is the best order. Bread can be somewhat chewy here, but you can order your banh mi on a buttery croissant—which, if not traditional, is absolutely delicious. Regardless, the pâté is nice and salty and livery, and the crunchy vegetables properly spicy; all the elements inside are totally working better than just about anywhere else.

Most of the business here is take-out; not surprising, given its bland strip-mall location. Service can be alarmingly slow, so don’t try to cram in other lunchtime errands. The shredded chicken is also great—better when lubricated with mayonnaise. You won’t find grilled pork on this menu, which we know is a popular order in the banh mi world, but if you usually get it as a substitute for the flavor missing from the cold cuts and pâté, you won’t miss it here.

There are also French-inspired desserts here, like creamy and rich crème caramel and an excellent banana bread pudding. And since everything costs between two and three bucks, you should go ahead and get one to eat while you wait interminably for your sandwich. After all, lunch is short: eat dessert first.