Seco’s advertised fusion of Mexican and “Continental” cuisine would normally have us speeding away from the scene, spurred on by nightmarish visions of quail in a pico de gallo aspic. But dishes are surprisingly—shockingly, sometimes—judicious and successful. A starter of calamari al ajillo, which typically consists of squid in a thick slick of garlicky butter or oil, is here much lighter and more ethereal, served with red onions, cilantro, and spicy peppers. Veracruz is channeled strongly in a “Snapper Seco,” a fillet of fish topped with a mound of red onions, jalapeño, garlic, cilantro, and capers.

Even the creamier dishes taste balanced and healthy: spinach enchiladas in a light cream sauce are delicious. A dull-sounding “Pollo Moran,” grilled chicken breast topped with sautéed mushrooms, onions, and poblanos, is actually intriguing in its own, slightly different cream sauce. On Sundays, the cute little café draws a crowd for its best buffet spreads in town, with more traditional Tex-Mex and Tex-Tex dishes like tamales, enchiladas, crab-stuffed jalapeños, and an omelette bar.

As opposed to other “Latin” restaurants, the ultimate appeal here isn’t authenticity or liquor-soaked festivity, but rather the freshness of the ingredients and the healthy cooking style (olive oil instead of lard). It tastes good, but we hesitate to even call this Mexican, or European, for that matter. It’s just…Seco’s.