This is the perfect place to take your grandpa for dinner. He won’t be overstimulated by the beige stucco building, nor will his blood pressure rise at the underwhelming, knee-jerk wine list (though he may have a minor coronary over the mark-ups). He’ll certainly appreciate the old-timey class of Frank #1 (there are two Franks—Crapitto and Butera) manning the front of house, chatting up guests as they dine at unadorned-yet-polished tables in a room warm with medium-brown woods. They’ve taken measures to make the place nice enough to warrant the price tag, but not stuffy.

Your grandfather will also appreciate Frank #2’s expertly prepared, old-fashioned comfort food. Fried chicken is not at all greasy, with a crunchy, flavorful crust. Chicken-fried steak is tender, with a crisp outside that holds up to the creamy, peppery gravy; and the crust stays on, bite after bite. As for steaks, this one is just—as chop houses go—eh. Ribeye is thinly cut and saucy, with virtually no char. But the double-bone pork chop rocks—it’s 16 ounces of correctly cooked pig. At the end of the meal, grandpa will declare it “very good,” and you might sort of agree. It’s just a safe, good meal that won’t knock anyone dead.