Judging by its old, chipped tables and torn-covered seats, you can bet Tau Bay has seen a lot of action over the years. There’s a nicer location nearer the hospital, but there are more menu options at that sketchier, grimier Bellaire Boulevard spot. It’s often dubbed the “Airplane Restaurant” for the odd Microsoft clip-artish airplane on the cover of its menu.

The pho’s been better on recent visits, richer and more deeply beefy—we can finally recommend it, but we still think the best order here is a plate of crispy egg rolls, a char-grilled beef rice plate, and Vietnamese coffee. The freshly fried egg rolls come in orders of eight, so your office snacks are covered for the day (so long as your coworkers don’t mind onion breath). That rice plate is wonderfully comforting, with its slices of char-flavored meat, shredded pork (texturally generous, if not flavorfully so), and egg cake that’s like a crustless quiche with dried mushrooms and rice noodles, delivering a rich savoriness. With a bit of accompanying sweet-salty nuoc cham, it’s a well-rounded and delicious meal. It’s not quite as good as Thien Thanh or Thuan Kieu Com Tam, but it will definitely do in a pinch.