Ouisie’s Table looks like something out of Southern Living magazine: elegant in its white tablecloths, but not uptight; classy yet quaint, with a rustic chalkboard for specials. Though the décor is not overtly feminine or anything, this spot draws mostly groups of gals, who convene in the airy “sun room,” with its summertime piano player, or on the lovely outdoor patio.

Aside from some gorgeous salads, the food’s mostly of the heavy Southern ilk. A capable chicken-fried steak with a luxurious (but not too thick) black pepper-milk gravy comes with mashed potatoes, corn pudding, bacony black-eyed peas, and greens—all of which are delicious. An ill-conceived venison version is tougher and a bit gamey. Expertly fried Gulf oysters pair brilliantly with Maytag blue cheese slaw and tomato salad. Shrimp and grits are fantastic, but a mac and cheese that separates from its béchamel base isn’t worth the price; neither, for that matter, is the unmemorable brunch or the recently offered breakfast service.

The wine list is dominated by prestigious names and generic-tasting biggies, but for anyone who actually minds, there are some respectable Italian and French bottles at fairer prices. Or get drunk on Ouisie’s tempting desserts, like dense old-fashioned chocolate layer cake, creamy pots de crème, and a superb key lime tart. After all, a waist is a terrible thing to mind.