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Fearless Critic restaurant review
Counter service

Mon–Thu 10:00am–10:00pm
Fri–Sat 10:00am–11:00pm
Sun 11:00am–9:00pm

Features Kid-friendly, outdoor dining, veg-friendly
Bar Beer, wine
Credit cards Visa, MC, AmEx


2520 Montrose Blvd.
Houston, TX
(713) 528-4976

301 Milam St.
Houston, TX
(713) 224-4976
Daily 7:00am–8:00pm
Niko Niko’s
A crowded Greek counter that can be quite good, if you order right

People love Niko Niko’s, as evidenced by the unbearable crowds that pack the inside; sit outside, if you can—or better yet, head to the open-air Market Square location, which cuts to the chase with the best of the Niko’s menu.

Its popularity is—like most extremely popular things—strongly earned by a few appealing facets, while the rest is sort of blithely accepted. Roasted potatoes are great. Pork chops are generous and delicious. Fries are good, but order them extra crispy, and they’re even better. Lamb shank is tender. Desserts—especially galaktoboureko and loukoumades—are fitting ends to a meal. And then, of course, there’s the classic gyro, with its warm, soft pita bread that’s worthy of eating by itself. It’s wrapped around complex, richly flavored meat.

The rest of the menu, we have to warn you, is terrible. Salad vegetables taste like tap water, or nothing at all. Souvlaki meat is overcooked and challenging to chew. Moussaka wants for seasoning, and fish is cardboardy. “Greek lasagna” tastes like Chef Boyardee, and falafel is dry. So stick to the good stuff and don’t even think about ordering a Greek wine (not even remotely the best Greek wine you can get in Texas anymore); and definitely not a margarita. But then, we didn’t need to tell you that, right?

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