This Tex-Mex institution started life as the dream of a Laredo busboy, then served flavorless, poorly executed food for years. (Ah, the American Dream!) But Molina’s has managed to improve somewhat even while taking the food up to a more contemporary notch. Usually, this is where restaurants crash and burn, but the grill here is getting to be as good as anywhere. Among the improvements are a brilliant chile con carne (not chile con queso, which is an unmeaty, bland waste of time). Add it to cheese enchiladas for maximum pleasure. Carnitas and carne guisada are serviceable and tender. But the rest of the menu still rests comfortably in mediocrity.

Servers wear strangely pseudo-formal attire that might be better suited to Chippendales dancers. Maybe that’s what brings in all the female office workers; it certainly couldn’t be the “Ladies’ Special,” a cheese enchilada, guacamole, and chile con queso combo that is certain to return them to their offices in a food coma. The lunch specials are gigantic but not great. “Enchiladas à la Michael” are in an underseasoned tomatillo sauce, with bone-dry chicken; grilled items, though, can be surprising, especially quail. Margaritas are fine, but can be heavy on the Triple Sec, so ask them to take it easy. And you, take it cheesy.