La Moreliana’s no ordinary store. First off, they sell giant slabs of carcass—every part of the cow but the moo—at crazy low prices (not for the locavores, however, and no one can answer for the ethics). More importantly, the kitchen, which is really just one or two squat ladies maneuvering behind the counter, turns out excellent tacos and daily specials to a few day laborers and local Mexican businessmen at breakfast and lunchtime.

An order of three tacos—a totally filling lunch—rings in at around three bucks; it would be hard to argue that there’s a better deal in this city, anytime, anywhere, beginning with mind-blowing tacos al pastor, which favor the marinated pork flavor over that of sweet pineapple. Tender, gamey tacos de lengua are terrific with fiery house-made red and green salsas, the traditional onions and cilantro, and, of course, a squeeze of lime. Fajita tacos are fine, but not as make-your-eyes-roll-back good.

Don’t miss the daily stew, once a spectacular, authentic version of mole coloradito, a treat from the Oaxaca province, rich in dried chile flavor. It’s a general rule that the dingiest dives often make the best Mexican food of all—La Moreliana is one of the foremost examples.