The original Sylvia’s on Westheimer features enhanced wood archways, bright hues, blue-and-white colored tiles, and open, airy rooms; the newer Memorial branch—like Sylvia herself—is as warm and welcoming as any Texican-ranch kitchen. There’s even a bright blue truck parked in the Menil Museum parking lot during lunch Wed–Fri.

Margaritas are not quite the bright spot they once were. Skip the bland tortilla soup, and instead try the guacamole served with piles of diced tomatoes, onion, and jalapeños on the side so you can flavor it up to your liking (instead of watching a waiter do so, as is the pretentious trend at upscale joints). But get to the enchiladas without further delay. Not only is a standard cheese enchilada the paragon of its category, but even testy variations like crab are excellent, balancing the sweetish meat with a judicious sauce. Virtually all enchiladas are well executed, if uncreative. Also, Sylvia actually employs an arrocero who is responsible for nothing other than making the rice, which is fantastic. Anything mesquite-grilled is also great, like beef fajitas, shrimp, and tilapia. These arrive with delicious picante poblano rajas in a creamy cheese sauce. And cabrito is intoxicating, served as a tender guisada with vegetables silky from a long, slow braise. If you can stand to order anything but enchiladas, that is.