Given the reach of the Pho Saigon chain (which extends up to Austin), the quality here remains pretty high. People swear that the broth varies somewhat from location to location, but we generally find it deep and beefy, intensely flavored and nourishing. It’s not as redolent of clove and star anise as the excellent and venerable Pho Binh’s, but it’s still good. Just ask the hordes of people who swarm this place at lunch and on weekends.

Small bowls are big, and large bowls are gargantuan. Fatty brisket is either tough and crumbly or rubbery and inedible—but you should totally get it, just to flavor the broth further. Ask for eye-round rare on the side so you can dunk it just before eating. Chicken-based pho is lighter, but salty and flavorful, with those same magical healing powers. Vermicelli dishes are less oily than some other versions around town, with nicely crisped pork, a refreshing fish sauce, and sweet, charred shrimp. Soft spring rolls are just okay, but bereft of enough mint or cilantro to make them worthwhile, and unaided by a saccharine-sweet peanut sauce.

Most locations have a mass-produced, clean and nonspecific feel to them. It’s an impressive turn-and-burn operation—more good news, if you’re in a hurry.