Pork belly. It’s the root of all evil and the essence of everything good. It breaks waistlines and brings us bacon, the Texan fruit of life. QQ Cuisine in the Dun Huang Plaza makes it into one of the most delicious bites in town, a soft, steamed bun filled with succulent braised pork belly.

Aside from that, almost everything is unapologetically greasy, and some items—such as stir-fried spicy eggplant—are oily enough to slip out of your chopsticks. The kitchen specializes in all things wrapped and pan-fried. Pan-fried pork buns have a crispy bottom, fluffy bun, and juicy pork-and-chive filling; pan-seared dumplings are also great, with uniformly browned bottoms and a touch of fire inside. Scallion pancakes could use more scallions, but it’s rolled thin and pan-fried to an ideal crispness.

At first glance, QQ doesn’t look like much, more of dent than a hole in a wall. The industrial design seems built for speed, with tight-knit corners and openings just wide enough for a waiter to zoom back and forth between picking up orders and dropping off plates. The staff doesn’t spend much time on you, but with $3–$10 plates, it’s more about turning tables than building any sort of customer rapport. Besides, there’s pork belly; why wouldn’t you come back?