We struggled with whether or not to include Pappas Burger as one of our recommended restaurants. On one hand, there are far better burgers in town; on the other, the Pappas Bros. restaurants are homegrown institutions. And, come to think of it, this is a really good burger.

There’s a rumor that the patties incorporate Prime beef from their steakhouse. Whatever the case, this fresh-ground meat comes seasoned and cooked to your liking. You can add bacon, blue cheese, chili, or a number of other condiments, but the beef flavor’s so good on its own, you don’t really need to. French fries, on the other hand, look homemade, but are limp. There’s also fried shrimp and catfish, but it’s not as good as it is at the soul-food restaurants in town. Salads and vegetarian sandwiches will fulfill the non-meat-eaters in your party, if not as well.

There’s a confused retro theme to both locations. You got your counter seating; red, white, and blue colors; and creamy milkshakes that all sell the 1950s concept—but the giant televisions, goofy staff uniforms, and high prices snap you right back to present-day. Then again, the present’s where you find the burger fetish that means plump, juicy patties like these.