The run-down-warehouse look of 13 Celsius is handsome and genuine; the point—often missed by other, flashier wine bars—is to not steal focus from the wine (or the few good craft beers). It’s still cozy, with some plush leather couches and a small courtyard usually filled with industry folks. Don’t know anything about these wines? No worries—the bartender will set you up with something interesting and accessible, and (depending upon the night) might be able to tell you something about it. If, however, you are well traveled through winedom, you’ll revel in the selection of small-production, terroir-driven bottles. It’s a playground of Zweigelt, Gaglioppo, and Refosco.

The eponymous temperature at which the wine is stored and served is a refreshing change from the irresponsibly warm pours at wannabe wine bars, and if it suggests that the people behind this operation truly love wine, it’s even more evident in the criminally low markups that allow the masses to try something better than the mass-produced, chemically engineered stuff their pocketbooks force them to drink.

There’s a succinct menu of wine-friendly bites, but even these are carefully chosen: charcuterie and cheese, marcona almonds, and serviceable panini. And if you’ve ever wanted to experience Jerez in the South of Spain, just close your eyes, inhale some Fino sherry, and pop a nut. We just did.