Buffalo Wild Wings, a nationwide mega-chain that seems to be hitting puberty—growing faster than a 7th-grade boy—might be one big homage to that greatest of American bar-food inventions, but its proliferation of wacky flavors leaves us scratching our heads. In any case, the wings are good, and come not only in myriad flavors, but also at different spice levels—great for those who don’t want tears streaming down their faces as they eat. Culinary purists will, of course, want bone-in wings; infidels might choose the buffalo-tender version (here they’re called “boneless wings,” but it’s white meat). Buffalo Wild Wings can be a bit stingy with the sauce, but they’ll always bring more if you ask.

Stray from the wings, and the menu is a minefield. Burgers are notoriously bad, and ribs disappoint. Given that Buffalo Wild Wings is also a bar, you should have a beer, though the beer selection isn’t the greatest in town. The interior is bare-bones, but in an oddly deliberate way; lighting is strangely bright. There’s also a distinct sports-bar need being filled here, with numerous well-endowed TVs consistently screening whatever games matter, and that ever-popular trivia. Wings and trivia and beer? It’s a potent combination.